Skin Care 20’s to 70’s+
The beauty industry generally agrees that most damage done to the skin happens by our early 20’s. That means the aging process can take 15-20 years to start to show on our faces and body. While it varies from person to person, the signs are predominantly: acne (active breakouts, scars, marks left behind, large or clogged pores), brown pigment (sunspots, age spots, freckles), generalized redness (ruddy cheeks, broken facial vessels), sagging of jowls, lines/wrinkles and an overall tired appearance. In an effort to assist in helping turn back the clock as much as possible, we’re listing out the general rules for each age group and what is most likely happening during that time frame. As always, it is best to seek professional guidance to ensure you are following the correct treatment plan and product protocol for your specific skin type and concerns. Skin care products appropriate for ALL age groups include: cleansing twice per day, moisturizers containing antioxidants, peptides and/or hyaluronic acid and last, but certainly not least, daily sunscreen rated between 30 to 50 SPF (makeup products do not count as adequate protection). The skin care products mentioned in each age group are recommended to be used in addition to cleansing, moisturizing and daily sunscreen.
Many of you have been out in the sun or laying in tanning beds without much sun protection. The bad news is, most of the damage has already occurred. The good news is, we can start correcting it early and preventing it from becoming worse as you age. Keeping it simple is best with cleansing, moisturizing and daily SPF. In-office treatments to keep your skin fresh and correct any acne issues include chemical peels, microdermabrasion, Botox and filler for prevention.
This is the fine line between prevention and correction. You may start noticing your skin is not as fresh as it used to be—not the same as it was back in your 20’s, and you’re beginning to experience some unpleasant signs of aging. Skin care is getting a bit more sophisticated because we’re adding a few more products to the routine: chemical exfoliation once per day with either glycolic acid, salicylic acid or lactic acid. Lower dose of prescription tretinoin or a medical grade retinol is added in at night, starting slowly and working your way up to every other night or nightly as your skin becomes more tolerable to the product (many people can only use it 3 nights per week and that’s okay!). Helpful in-office treatments during this phase of your skin include chemical peels, IPL/BBL photofacials, microneedling and Botox.
Correcting is the goal from this age range moving forward. Aging is noticeable; becoming more aggressive with skin care and in-office treatments are a must. You may see brown pigment, redness and broken vessels, and your skin starting to sag on the lower face, neck and eyebrows. Skin care is the same as the 30’s, but now we’re adding in a pigment corrector for either brown or red pigment and a separate Vitamin C product. Because your routine has more steps, multi-tasking products will be quite helpful. This is where you may need guidance from your skin care professional to help you find the right products for your skin. Appropriate in-office treatments include chemical peels, microneedling, IPL/BBL photofacials, lasers, Botox and filler.
This is the age range where I believe we reach the peak with aggressive treatments being performed. Your skin, for the most part, can still handle aggressive treatments and products to offer maximum correction. You may start noticing pores are becoming larger, but your skin still feels dry or it’s becoming oilier than it has been in the past. Avoid heavy moisturizers over these areas, as the emollients can slip inside the pores making them appear larger. Adding in pore refining serums can help as well. Medical grade skin care typically includes Vitamin C, a pigment corrector and chemical exfoliation. Increase the percentage of tretinoin or retinol and try to use it 3-4 nights per week or nightly if possible. Effective in-office treatments for this age range include microneedling with growth factor or PRP, IPL/BBL photofacials, lasers, Botox and filler. A surgical consultation may be advised if hooded eyelids and jowl or neck sagging is becoming prominent.
Cell turnover, collagen production and elasticity are virtually non-existent at this stage. There is still plenty you can do to correct these signs of aging but skin care products and office treatments need to be a bit more gentle. Products include a toner for hydration, Vitamin C, pigment corrector, reducing chemical exfoliation to every other day if skin is becoming more reactive and prescription tretinoin or retinol nightly if possible. In-office treatments: microneedling with growth factor or PRP, IPL/BBL photofacials, lasers, Botox, filler and potentially a surgical consultation for hooded eyes, loss of volume in face and/or sagging jowls and neck.
Delicate is the word for you skin at this stage. Your skin is becoming thinner, more translucent, reactive and showing the maximum signs of aging. Deep lines and wrinkles, age spots, broken facial vessels and sagging are the biggest concerns. Reducing the amount of products is helpful for you as a simple routine is often preferred over one that is more complex. Medical grade skin care includes a toner for freshening and hydration, low concentration of chemical exfoliation several times per week and lowering the dose of tretinoin or retinol. In-office treatments are also becoming more gentle: conservative or light chemical peels, IPL/BBL photofacials, microneedling with growth factor or PRP, Botox and filler. Surgical consultations are often scheduled during this time for correcting hooded eyelids (some insurance companies will pay for this surgery), facial fat grafting and face and/or neck lift. Side note: the skin must be as healthy as possible for injectables and surgery to look their best. Your provider may encourage you to go through a series of skin treatments and be on a regimen at home prior to treating with your injectables or surgery.
We hope you found this guide helpful no matter which stage you find yourself in! As mentioned before, a consultation with a skin care expert is the best way to decipher what exactly your skin needs depending on age, skin type, concerns, price range, etc. Call (615) 771-7718 or click here to schedule your complimentary consultation with one of our licensed estheticians across all CSPS locations to get started!
–Heather Happy, Licensed Esthetician, CSPS Brentwood
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